The Tunisian Chechia: A Red Cap Crafted Across Cities and Exported to African Markets

From wool knitting in family homes to felting, dyeing and shaping in the Souk des Chéchias, this centuries-old craft reveals how a traditional headpiece evolved into a specialised industry now facing challenges to its survival.

In the Souk des Chéchias, located in the historic Medina of Tunis, the traditional red chechia is far more than a piece of headwear. It represents a centuries-old craft shaped by specialised skills and longstanding trade connections between Tunisia and African markets.

Unlike the more rigid traditional fez, the Tunisian chechia is a soft, low-profile cap made from processed wool. Although best known for its distinctive red colour, it is also produced in other colours to meet the preferences of different markets.

The production of a chechia begins with preparing wool yarn, which is then knitted into an initial cap known locally as a kabous.

Women working from their homes often undertake this first stage before the pieces move on to felting, a process in which water, heat and pressure are applied to bind the wool fibres together until the original knitted texture is no longer visible.

The caps then undergo combing, dyeing, shaping and final finishing. Each stage requires specialised skills, and the production process may involve craftspeople working in several Tunisian cities.

Testimonies from artisans published in Garland Magazine explain that chechia production depends on an extensive network of workers, including knitters, felting specialists, dyers and workshop owners in the historic Medina.

The history of the present-day Souk des Chéchias dates back to the rule of the Muradid Beys in the late seventeenth century, with its establishment generally traced to around 1691–1692.

The movement of artisanal knowledge from Andalusia to North Africa contributed to the development of chechia production, which became an important economic activity in Tunisia during various historical periods.

The souk was not merely a place where finished products were sold. It also served as a centre for organising production and trade among artisans and merchants, with the quality of each cap depending on the expertise applied at every stage of its manufacture.

The chechia's popularity extended beyond Tunisia to several African countries, including Libya, Algeria, Nigeria and Niger.

Colours and consumer preferences vary between these markets, encouraging Tunisian artisans to adapt their products to demand beyond the domestic market.

Artisan testimonies published in 2022 indicated that a substantial share of production was destined for export. However, these accounts alone are insufficient to establish the industry's actual export volumes in 2026.

Chechia production faces several challenges, including its lengthy manufacturing process, heavy dependence on manual skills, ageing felting equipment and the need to train new generations of artisans.

Women working from home remain particularly important during the early stages of production, representing an economic contribution that may not be immediately visible to visitors purchasing finished caps in the souk.

The craft illustrates that safeguarding heritage involves more than preserving traditional objects. It also requires protecting the knowledge, techniques and networks of skilled workers that make their continued production possible.

Visitors exploring the Medina of Tunis can head to the Souk des Chéchias to discover shops and workshops specialising in this traditional headpiece.

Speaking with artisans about the types of wool used, felting techniques and different stages of production can provide a deeper understanding of the craft.

Visitors may also learn to distinguish handmade chechias from products manufactured using alternative methods. UNESCO inscribed the Medina of Tunis on the World Heritage List in 1979 and recognises its specialised souks as part of a historic urban network associated with traditional crafts.

Importantly, this World Heritage designation applies to the Medina itself, not to the chechia as an independently inscribed heritage element.

The Tunisian chechia demonstrates how a seemingly simple traditional product can support an entire economic network of artisans, workshops, suppliers and merchants.

Its tourism value lies in allowing visitors to discover the production process and meet the skilled craftspeople who preserve it.

A visit to the Souk des Chéchias can therefore become a cultural experience that goes well beyond purchasing a traditional souvenir.